The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Travis Hart
Travis Hart

Elena is a seasoned journalist with over a decade of experience covering UK politics and social issues, known for her insightful reporting and engaging storytelling.