Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
